Torrone di Cremona
NOUGAT CANDY, CREMONA STYLE
Torrone is a very ancient dessert, probably because its main ingredient is honey, which was the first sweetener ever used. One of its first recipes is found in the ancient Roman cookbook by Apicius and included whole eggs, pepper and milk, which must have produced a torrone somewhat different from the one we know.
It was at the court of the Visconti in Cremona, on the occasion of the wedding banquet for Bianca Maria Visconti and Francesco Sforza, that the torrone graced the tables in its fine smooth white vest.
The torrone is seen on the table of every Italian family at Christmas and during other festivities. It is served at the end of the dinner with dried and candied fruit and sweet wines such as Moscato d'Asti (natural or sparkling) and Marsala. One variety of torrone comes covered with a solid crust of chocolate. Personally, I prefer it without chocolate, which tends to make the delicate taste of honey and almonds disappear.
A good torrone should be hard, but not too difficult to cut with a knife. In Italy it is produced commercially by a few reputable manufacturers. I cannot understand, however, why even the best among them export a torrone which is so chewy that it gives a completely erroneous idea of what a true torrone is like. This recipe is for those of you who, not having relatives or friends in Italy to ask that genuine torrone be shipped to you, want to taste the real thing.
Torrone di Cremona
- 1-1/2 cups honey
- 3 cups blanched almonds
- 1-1/2 cups hazelnuts
- 1-1/4 cups sugar
- 3 egg whites
- Grated rind of 1 lemon
- Pour honey into a large double boiler and cook for 1-1/2 hours, stirring constantly with a very clean wooden spoon. (It would be advisable to make this dessert with one or more friends, so that you can take turns mixing.)
- Toast almonds and hazelnuts in oven until golden brown. Just before honey is ready (when it becomes hard and brittle if dropped from a teaspoon into cold water), put sugar into a small pan with 1/2 cup water and cook until slightly bluish.
- Beat egg whites to stiff peaks and add to honey. Mix well for 5-6 minutes. Add diluted sugar.
- Mix again for another 5 minutes. Add almonds, hazelnuts and grated lemon rind. Mix well and pour into a rectangular Pyrex pan lined with rice paper or well-buttered waxed paper.
- Level mixture with a knife and cover with another sheet of buttered paper.
- Place a weight on top, like another smaller Pyrex pan, and set aside for 30 minutes.
- Turn upside down on a board and slice into small rectangular pieces.
- Keep wrapped in aluminum foil.
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Recipe from
Solo Dolci
The Italian Dessert Cookbook
by Anna Bruni Benson
208 pages, clothbound, 8 color photos, $19.95
ISBN 1-56474-185-0
For ordering information, click here or phone (800) 662-8351 |
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