FITHIAN PRESS

Cicerchiata ITALIAN HONEY CAKE The name cicerchiata comes from cicero, a southern expression for cece (garbanzo bean). In fact, the little balls of fried dough which are the basis for this dessert look a little like garbanzo beans. My recipe for cicerchiata comes from Abruzzo, the central-southern region of Italy by the Adriatic Sea, where my father's family came from. I saw it being made in my grandmother's kitchen, shiny with copper pots and pans hanging on the walls, a long marble table and, next to modern appliances, the big fireplace darkened by soot. It was still used for all sort of chores, such as the canning of tomatoes and peppers and the making of the torrone (nougat candy), for which two strong men were summoned to mix the honey in a large cauldron. When they made the cicerchiata, no men were needed to mix the little golden balls with the honey, but it was a pretty sticky affair and it did take some strength, especially if it was in a quantity large enough to satisfy all the visiting adults and grandchildren. I made them a few years ago for three hundred people, as a guest pastry chef of the International Culinary Institute of Los Angeles, on the occasion of a festival of Abruzzo organized by "Ciao Italia." I worked two days, the second day six hours non-stop. But it was worth it. Although my recipe is from Abruzzo, this dessert is very popular throughout southern Italy. Cicerchiata 2-1/2 cups flour 4 eggs 1 tbsp. olive oil 1 pt. honey 1/4 tsp. cinnamon (optional) Vegetable oil for frying Sift flour over mixing board. Add eggs and oil and knead well. Roll dough up in a ball and bounce it on the board to test elasticity--it's ready if it doesn't "sit" on the board when you bounce it. Cut into 8 pieces and roll up into little sticks 1/8" in diameter. Cut in small pieces the size of peanuts. Deep fry, a few at a time, until double in size and golden brown. Place in a large bowl. Put honey in a pan and bring to boil. Throw dough puffs in and mix well. Let cook for 3-4 minutes. Place a small wet mixing bowl in the center of a large serving dish and arrange puffs around it. Shape into a ring with help of a wet wooden spoon. Remove bowl and, it you like, sprinkle ring with cinnamon. Let cool. The honey will harden and the ring can be sliced in small pieces like nougat candy. Note: For Easter the center of the ring can be filled with sugar eggs and decorated with fresh daisies. I also made it for our traditional New Year's Eve party and sprinkled it with multicolored granulated sugar.   Recipe from Solo Dolci The Italian Dessert Cookbook by Anna Bruni Benson 208 pages, clothbound, 8 color photos, $19.95 ISBN 1-56474-185-0 FITHIAN PRESS 1-800-662-8351